tiny town, big travel

We are a little behind in updating from Florence but we just HAD to tell you about our travel day from hell.

Started our leisurely morning with a lovely sleep-in, bought some gorgeous leather belts and cruised toward our first class train seats for the 3 hour ride to Naples. Mid cruising we experienced Belle's suitcase handle breaking: did you already know that her back two wheels were broken?? So basically, dragging a bag of bricks down cobblestone roads. Also, today was a full sunny day (which we would normally be thankful for) causing major B.O. infused pits.

Arriving 20 minutes early at the train station, we felt calm and collected. The train arrived and the binario (platform) was announced, so we cooly walked over to our carriage. Um, closest carriage listed was 12. We were in carriage 4. So another "haul ass" down the way... We lugged these stupid suitcases on and performed he-man like dead lifts of suitcases into the first class overhead bins. Until Belle yanked one way & Kenz the other. We were stuck mid laugh with Mackenzie's suitcase extended fully overhead with absolute no energy left to push it one inch further.

So happy to sit, read, journal and relax in first class. 3 insanely quick hours later, we arrived in hell... otherwise known as Naples train station. I am sure ol' Napoli and its people & pizza are fabulous.. But train station = hell. A few moments and dragged suitcases later (thank you to kenz for carrying belle's extra bags while she scooted her suitcase along), we were on the Circumvesuviana local train. Crap hell. Admits graffiti & 17 year olds in bejeweled jackets, we experienced a few awkward run-ins with the locals.

No worries, because the hour or so went by quickly: while standing with bags and making sure we weren't pickpocketed. The bus to the Amalfi coast was only steps away from our train stop in Sorrento! Woohoo. Yes, steps away but about an hour and 7,000 unnecessary stops and turns through Sorrento before even attempting to run us off a cliff on the way to Positano. Seriously, this bus almost took out 100 cars and a few storefronts. Sick to our stomachs, we did our best to take in the amazing views of the coast. (See below for how we really felt about the ride)

Happy to be safe in Positano, this town is adorable! So quaint, so sweet. Just had an amazing dinner to mend our headaches and send us into a long nights slumber. Sunny days ahead and so much cuteness to explore. Not sure we will ever want to leave.

Note to self: next time, get dropped off directly into Positano via helicopter. This bus stuff stinks!

Ciao!
Belle & Mack

little direction, big meal

Friday in Firenze rundown:

Late start. Typical breakfast of cheese & bread & yogurt.

Torrential downpour. umbrellas. Ponte Vecchio. Browse, browse, browse. Darling nook & bench with cheese and wine.

Showered up for our 4 course cooking class. Amazing wine bar pre-class (thanks again for the recommendation emmers!)

Cooking class: lots of quick, shouted directions. Chopping, blanching, pasta making... A few hours later we had a four course meal. Yummeroo

Meal:
Eggplant Caprese
Fresh Egg Pasta with Capers & Tomatoes
Chicken amazingness (don't know name)
Crema Catalana

Attempted to "stay out" that night but the rain sent us home. We did pop into a discoteca for a quick peek, to see what it's all about. A few shoulder sways & a potty dance later, we were outta there and in our pjs.

Saturday & Sunday were pretty awesome. More to come on that later..

Ciao!

Belle & Mack

tiny stairwell, big view

Wednesday, April 3rd, an evening arrival in Firenze greeted us with an Irish Pub. We know, strange. We had our first birra Morretti paired with a sausage piadine (thick bread with melted cheese) and a shot of limoncello a gratis (on the house).

Side note: every establishment is rocking out to American music, esp dirty rap and Rhianna.

The next day was dedicated to the sights of Florence. We put our walking shoes on and made our way to the underwhelming (very brown) Arno River. Eventually, we turned toward the center of the city to find the Cattedrale di Santa Maria del Fiore, otherwise known as the Duomo. As we approached, we stood in awe at the beauty and intricate detail of the architecture. Inside was even more incredible. It was so grand, vast but with an empty feel. Still absolutely gorgeous in the small details it carried...huge bronze door, hidden organ, vibrant ceiling painting and quiet corners of prayer candles.

After exiting the Cattedrale we had to determine which steps to climb; Giottos's Campinale or Cupola. Cupola won! A cold line and 8 euros later, we found ourselves climbing 463 steps in an itty bitty stairwell. Halfway up the climb we popped out right into to the painted dome above the altar. At first noticing the colors and serene angels reaching toward God. And then our eyes lowered to see sinners being dragged and tortured into hell. Talk about instilling the fear of God. A frightening yet remarkable sight! At the top, we had a 360 degree view that overlooked the terra cotta rooftops that led into the Tuscan Hillsides. We wanted to channel Mary Poppins and float with our umbrellas in to the hills.

Down, down, down to find 'David' and all his glory. We found ourselves in the longest shortest line (seriously) at the Galleria dell' Academia. We, honestly, were not thrilled with the Galleria as a whole but Michaelangelo's 'David' was definitely worth the wait. As we walked in all we could here was a voice yelling "No photo! No photo!" (Not the normal vibe of a museum) So we waited till we got around the corner to sneak a photo. It's only a side shot but it's a shot!!

Just wanting to see the San Lorenzo market, we were tempted by the smell of leather and lured in to a store front. About 20 minutes later, two girls with little feet were rocking leather jackets. The best "oops" ever! Spent...dinner and bedtime!

Ciao!
Belle & Mack

tiny bites, big culture

Just saying a quick hello from Firenze (Florence)! We are in love with Italy and have been busy filling up on Florence art, wine, cheeses and culture.

Sitting at a cafe now, sipping caffelattes... Exhaustion is really starting to set in. We are bussing off to Greve, a small town in the Chianti wine region. Hoping to find some tasting rooms or bikes to rent to make our way around. Who knows, always an adventure!

Here's a quick peek at fabulous Firenze!

Little feet, an insane amount of steps

Venice to Cinque Terre: Midday departure found us on a train through the Italian countryside. We arrived in Riomaggiore (first of five cities) late Monday evening with the rain coming down and a huge hill to roll our suitcases up. At the top, we found Stefani waiting for us @ our locanda (small hotel). Stairs and some more stairs and a steep stair case brought us to our quaint room. Exhausted from the day's travels and suitcase carrying we walked to the mercato for some meats, cheese, bread and a bottle of the local vino rosso to bring up to the room. Eat & buono notte!

Tuesday was super rainy (yes, still) in Cinque Terre so the hiking trails were closed. We hopped on the local train to Monterosso. We took our teeny piedini about the wet streets and soaked (literally) in the town. Warmth was what we needed and the Enoteca was our answer! Chianti and green olive focaccia. Holy amazing!

After defrosting, we headed back to Riomaggiore for warm showers and the local cuisine - seafood. We felt more walking was necessary before dinner so instead, we took a left out of our hotel. Up, up, up we go to the most lovely view of the Ligurian Sea. And lucky for us it led right to Bar Vini. How did it know?? Our taste buds craved something new... so a glass of vermentino it was! Delightful.

Continuing on, it was time to indulge in Cinque Terre's stuffed mussels, swordfish linguine and seafood risotto...We had heard there was a reputation for this food: rightfully so!

After dinner fun brought us to Bar Centrale for a sipper schiaccetra - dessert wine (another local delight, thanks to Emily for the introduction). All the while, watching an Italian soccer game with the over the top friendly locals. Sleepy time.

Travel Day provided some fun. That means see as much as we can in a short time. Since we couldn't hike CT (due to rain, cuz our movin' feet would do it if allowed), we were determined to see as many of the 5 terre as possible. The morning train brought us to Vernazza. There we explored, enjoyed the view, bought a couple of souvenirs and ate some gelato - ricotta e fichi (fig) for Mack and bacio (chocolate hazelnut) for Belle. We hopped back on the train for Corniglia.

Hop, hop, hopped off that train. Literally a huge jump - hiked up about 400 stairs - enjoyed the view - chugged a limoncino like an Italian and ran down the stairs back to the train we needed to catch to Riomaggiore. Now a bit sweaty, checked out of our hotel and conveniently slipped back onto the train (without tickets, oopsy) to La Spezia where we had about 10 minutes to buy a ticket to Florence. Even the train transfer of 12 minutes in Pisa turned out to be maybe 3 minutes.

Broken backs, broken suitcases and some serious racing to the trains lead to a looooong moment of relaxation once we reached our Florence hotel (followed by a pizza and italian beer). Happy & excited to settle our piedini for 5 whole days, we've already begun to immerse ourselves in Florentine culture & food.

Ciao for now!

Belle & Mack

little city, big spending (oops!)

The last few days have been filled with waterfront views and moments of peace.

Monday morning we took a private water taxi from Venice to the island of Murano & dropped right into a private glassblowing demonstration. Murano is known for their hand-blown glass and we got a peek into how a "Master" glassblower creates his art. We kept wondering how we got so lucky to have this private tour, well... We figured it out quickly when we were walked into the factory's showroom. We each bought a little keepsake (it's a secret!) and walked around the town. Murano was small, full of gifts shops selling blown glass items and the cutest old men & women strolling about on Easter Monday. Loving seeing the men gathered together, rowing their gondolas, sharing morning caffes. The culture and traditions are rich here!

To be continued...must tell you all about Cinque Terre!

Little feet, big suitcases

" my feet hurt". It's been cold!! Haven't had a chance to be adorable in flats. Boots only!

Buona Pasqua! A few days ago, we started out our Easter morning with a traditional Italian breakfast: cappuccino, flakes, yogurt, cheese, ham and a bun. From there we walked and walked and walked to eventually find Piazza San Marco. Continued to walk (heehee) and walk and came across the cutest alley way. We partook in the Venetian norm of a midday aperitif and cicchetti (small tapa type foods). Every Venetian bacaro & corner "snack bar" advertise their Campari & Aperol "spritz." We've noticed Venetians walk into a bar, order & literally chug this pure liquor (mixed with a spritz of soda water), while it takes us Americans about an hour to drink. Don't worry, we're sure we'll get the hang of it soon.

After the rain stopped, so did our aperitif time. We ended up back at Piazza San Marco in line for the Piazzale Ducole. Here we learned a ridiculous amount of information about the Doge of Venice (still not sure what a doge is), self-electing governments and a huge fire of 1577. We DID see the world's largest canvas painting, Il Paradisio, and some amazing 15th & 16th century architecture. Gold specks everywhere, except the dingy prisons (not somewhere we'd want to be when Venice floods!) We popped out of the Doge's palace & realized the entrance for St. Mark's Basilica was right around the corner & free!!!! We eagerly hopped in line to find out the Basilica itself was closed due to Easter weekend.

The sun was out now, so we tried to " get lost" in the alleys and ended up right back near our hotel with a Spritz in hand (internal compasses??), sitting at the Grand Canal with the Ponte Rialto in sight. Yes... It really was that perfect.

Tired as heck & suddenly very cold, we found a nice pasta dinner and went to bed. Yesterday's journey is a whole other story. We'll spare you the details... Until we write up that post.

We are now in Riomaggiore & enjoying a pre-dinner spritz. Campari & soda. A seafood dinner is in the very near future.

Ciao for now!

Time to take our feet to dinner,
Belle & Mack